A Brief Journey Through Time

A Walk Through Denia, Spain

On the face of things, Denia is an imposing town, with it’s castle atop a steep knoll of rock and it’s marina stuffed to the gunwales with extravagantly outsized gin palaces. Whether, to invade, or to trade, this is a destination that has always attracted the itinerant. These days, tourists like ourselves can be added to their list of invaders.

Like all invaders, we needed intelligence, something that we are woefully short of. We headed into the local Tourist Information Office in search of help. Guess what, there was no truly useful tourist map of the town. You know the sort of thing; you have up to half a day ‘to do the town’ and you need an easy to follow guide.

We returned the next year and discovered that there was an Old Town. It had little squares bounded by cafes with umbrella shaded tables to sit at. On sunny days, these beautiful little quads echo with the voices of customers, as they sit in the sun drinking coffees and beers and talking loudly with friends. We had no idea any of this existed. Somehow we had managed to bypass this gem.

This year is our third visit here. We have decided that if you want to see a job done, you must do it yourself. And so, without further ado, we bring to you, a map of Denia that you can copy into your phone, along with the information sheet. Armed and dangerous you can then set off to get yourself acquainted with this unique city.

If you are not planning to visit Denia, it does not matter, as we hope the maps and information will interest and delight you anyway. You can come along with us and get your pleasure vicariously.

The Maps

Especially for all you map-o-philes out there, we have two maps of the same walk.

The first Map has places of interest on it and some key street names.

The second map gives you all the street names. Handy if you get into a bit of a pickle.

And for map-o-phobes, we have a special offering, a pictorial route around the same walk.

*If viewing on your mobile phone, please turn your phone on it’s side, landscape format. Each of the first two maps can then be expanded to fit your phone’s screen.*

We suggest copying both maps onto your phone and see how you get on.

Denia Old and New-A Pictorial Walking Guide.

Park your car in the Port carpark (1 on both maps), as near to the town as you can. Walk along the roadside promenade, with the port on your left and the town on your right. Cross the road when you can see this view.

Captain John Paul Jones, a Scotsman, was a famous hero during the American civil war. Click here to read more about his surprising life. In 1959, Hollywood captured his story, the filming took place in Denia.

Walk from Captain Jones towards the font and stone cross in the centre of the square, which is called Placeta De La Creu. Now walk towards the terracotta coloured building in the corner of the square, you can see it in the photo – left. You round a slight bend and enter a narrow street.

You are now in Carrer Bitibau a classic old town street; walk to it’s end and you will pop out into another square.

A stunning spot for a break from all this walking! This square is choc full of cafes and tables, and at the right time of day, glorious sunshine and people. Nothing better.

Find and walk past the red building; the word ‘Heaven’ has now been removed. Keep this building on your right; this is a very short street.

You will find yourself in Carrer Del Port. Part way along this street, on your right, is Magazinos, a chic and sophisticated street food style venue. With cocktail bars and terraces, tea and coffee and food offerings to please any pallet, this is a ‘must visit’ for foodies. At night it is magical, with illuminated palms and walls of fairy lights.

When you eventually waddle, full tummied, out of Magazinos, continue along Carrer Del Port until it ends. Look straight ahead, across the road junction and you will see this flight of steps. Make your way up those steps admiring the pretty houses you pass on your right. Look to your right for your next turning.

A rather shabby looking street with some very elderly homes and the massive lower ramparts of the castle walls awaits. It feels very much like a canyon

At the end of Carrer Del Triquet, bear right (follow the yellow line on the road) and you will pass a Solid, stone built, Moorish tower as you enter Carrer Hospital.

Keep an eye open for a set of steps on your right. This is the quick way up to the castle gate. There is a ramp to one side of the steps, if you prefer. As you trot up the steps, look out for the pretty blue house on your left and it’s cats.

You will emerge here; turn right to go to the castle, and left to continue the walk. We suggest that you walk through the castle entrance and take a look; the first 50m is free and quite interesting. You will exit the castle by the same door way used for entry; walk straight on to continue.

We highly recommend taking a tour of the castle. There is plenty to see including, a small and interesting museum entirely presented in Spanish, a cafe, the ancient castle remains and grounds, and fantastic views of the town and it’s marina. Allow one hour.

Scale of charges for entry to the castle.

Walk down the hill, looking to your left for your next turning. Also admire some of the best decorated and loved houses in town.

Take this turning on your left, it will be the final old street of your tour. At the bottom of this street live a closed order of Augustian Nuns. Their nunnery dates from 1599. If the door to the church is open, you may enter, there will almost certainly be a service in operation at these times.

Turn left onto Carrer Loreto and prepare to be overwhelmed at the choice of eateries and bars that line this street. It is a perfect place to grab a coffee and enjoy the street vibe. Better still, stay a little longer for a drink, tapas, or even a reasonably priced meal in this busy and relaxed street.

You tumble out of Carrer Loreto and into the Place De La Constitucio where you will see the Town Hall on your left, and nearby, a church and to your right, more cafes with outside tables and chairs. Turn right and look out for your next street.

You are now entering the modern shopping area of the town. Make your way to the bottom of this street, window shopping as you go.

At the end of Carrer Del Cop, walk across the road to the island with the trees on it, slightly to your right. Inside this island, bounded by a small road and parked cars, you will find a large, elegant, fountain, shady public seatings and some cafe tables. Sit at any of these bistro style tables and a server will appear and take your order; it is a perfect spot for a cooling drink on a hot day.

Walk out of the Glorieta Del Pais Valencia, heading towards the wide, tree enveloped shopping street. This street is regularly closed to traffic and is the main focus for festivals which seem to be held on a monthly basis. A good place to get to know what is fashionable in Spain.

Why not take a tiny detour off the Carrer Del Marques De Campo to seek out the Esglesia De Sant Antoni De Padua. Towards the end of this shopping street, take the left turning stroll along the Carrer Candida Carbonell for about 10 paces. You will see an open square on your right called Placa Del Convent. If the church is open, it is well worth your time. This is a 2 minute detour, without going inside the church.

At the end of Carrer Del Marques De Campo, Cross the road and walk to the yellow banner that reads ‘PANSETA’. This is a free ferry that will take you across the water to the vibrant, modern Marina, with it’s sophisticated restaurants.

Alternatively, turn left, walk with the marina on your right, and visit both the Port Denia Gallery, with it’s exhibition of the history of the the Port, and the fish market, ‘Posit’, where the town’s fishing fleet moor up and sell their catch each day. The fish market offers guided tours at 4pm most days of the week.

Once over the water using the Panseta, you will notice that many of the glamorous restaurants offer very reasonable set menus, all offer hot and cold drinks, simply find a place you would like to sit and a server will arrive.

Continue your walk along the waterfront and you will arrive at your start point.

We had fun walking around Denia, getting to know it better. If you enjoyed this article, or even tried out the walk, please let us know what you think. Comments can be left in the reply box below. We will get back to you. Thank you. The Wallys. x

L’Albarda Garden, Pedreguer, Spain

Pure paradise with some very special twists.

In contrast to the English National Trust’s overstocked, over co-ordinated and over primped gardens for the over wealthy, L’Albarda is a garden on a human scale. Intimate, balmy, exotic; inspirational. In fact only a year ago, it seemed to be all a garden should and could be, but, as it turned out, there were secrets hidden within it’s walls. Following this first visit, we determined that we would be back.

One year after our first look around this slice of heaven, an opportunity came for our second visit, which would be guided by a local professor of botany. Immediately, we said yes. And that is how we found ourselves heading out, in the warm winter sunshine, with a group of cyclists. We had all skimmed through the Spanish countryside on our bicycles, many of which were electric. Us two fools were on ancient, borrowed, bikes that were somebody’s cast offs. One had an ridiculously inadequate, back pedal brake and both were woefully shy of gears. From the East of Denia we cycled towards a place called Pedreguer.

It was to be a day of surprises.

Billy and Brittany our blooming bicycles

What was surprising?

You are right to ask.

The first thing is that we made it there at all. Having avoided cycling for about 10 years, we were truly chuffed to find we were able to force our arcane steeds to their limits. In turn they certainly pushed us to our limits. At our age exercise is important, but the only very steep climb of the day, to the garden gate, felt like a killer; though, here I am, alive and well to tell the tale.

Another surprise? This garden is more than gorgeous, it turns out that it hosts a nationally important collection of native plants. It is a wildflower haven maintained using organic methods. We had noticed that the place had weedy areas here and there; and in a way it does.

As the sun sinks, take time to sit and look closely at what surrounds you. Sketch, meditate, let your mind flow away.

Top off the first two surprises with a sleek, low, ground hugging auditorium, that is being constructed especially for operatic performances and this becomes the garden that keeps giving. Imagine on a warm summers evening being immersed in green lushness, with glimpses of sweeping, crystal clear, mountains soaring beyond the garden walls, the setting sun showering the firmament with the glowing embers of the day. All this before being called to step inside with your glass of Champagne in hand and with your charming escort accompanying you to your seat where you will be consumed by a whirlwind, goose bump raising, performance.

Our Professor walked us through the grounds, chatting along the way about the things we were seeing: Wormwood, used to make the drink Absinthe and another plant very similar to Thyme that is added to alcohol to enrich the flavour. We could all see where this was going.

Usually we know what we have seen. Our eyes take in everything and our brains grapple to make an accurate interpretation, which we accept as fact. Surprisingly little input is needed for our view of the world to change. In a couple of hours, this chap had caused a paradigm shift in the way we perceived the garden. Yes, it is an absolutely gorgeous spot, any fool can see that, reason enough for dawdling through it’s leafy calm. And yet, it is so much more than the sum of it’s parts, because of the owner’s higher aims to preserve and understand native plant life and to encourage others to embrace the importance of caring for our biosphere.

The guided tour ended. We thanked our guide and said our goodbyes. All that was left for our merry band of cyclists to do, was to head home. We pushed our bikes to the garden gates, mounted up and hurtled straight downhill. With one of us having to pedal backwards in a vain attempt to moderate the speed of the bike, and the other with no back brake, we gave up trying to slow our bikes. Instead we hung on like devils on horseback all the way to the bottom, where we were greeted by the safety of a level cycle way.

Heavily scented Jasmin, growing against a blue outbuilding in L’Albarda Garden.

Oh how sweet the ride home, with memories of L’Arbada Garden lingering in our minds.

If you would like to leave a comment or question for either of us, please write it in the ‘reply’ box below. Thank you. Wally and Jen

HOW TO BUTCHER AN OCTOPUS

Watch our fascinating video for a glimpse into an ancient skill that is still used daily in Spain.

Rising stolidly out of the beach, with the waves often lapping at it’s walls, is the Restaurante Sendra. It is a Mecca for seafood lovers the world over, because it takes great care of it’s basic ingredient; seafood.

Restaurante Sendra rising out of the sea

You know this place is special before you walk in. In fact you would be amazed if it were anything but the best. The translucent Octopuses hanging to dry on the beach and swaying in the fresh, salty sea air, is all the clue needed.

Octopuses drying in the Mediterranean Sun

We wanted to know a little more about the place and asked a member of staff if he would demonstrate how he prepares octopuses for drying. The result is the very short video below:-

How to butcher an octopus, an age old Mediterranean tradition.

So there you have it; Restaraunte Sendra may look a bit dull from the Rotes beach path, but it is well worth lingering over.

It may be a dull brown colour, but this restaurant is truly vibrant.

For more about the lives of Octopuses click this link.

If you have enjoyed this blog, please let us know by dropping us a line using the reply box at the bottom of this page. Thank you from The Wallys.

The Gravity of Having a Bird Brain

The other morning, during the Tea Ceremony, I lazily stared out of the window, and noticed a gang of sparrows feasting on some crumbs we had thrown down. They scratched and rummaged through the gravel, garnering tasty morsels along the way. This is an everyday, rural scene, though one that is simply pleasing, I kept watching. I wondered who, apart from me, was top bird, and who was the bottom bird. Was there a gender bias between the top and bottom birds? Was there any more tea in the pot?

One lucky little lady Sparrow found a monster sized crumb, just shy of an inch around, that’s 2.5cm in new money, and off she flew. Aerodynamics is a precise art, even for a fluttering bird, and that swinging prize had hugely affected her flight accuracy. The crumb was dangling, precariously from her beak, as she clumsily attempted to alight on one of the many twigs at the top of the nearest hedge. As she made footfall, that crumb let go and crashed down through the hedge and on to the ground.

Now, here is the thing. She immediately noticed that crumb’s loss and looked around for it. At no point did she look down. I cannot say for sure whether or not she looked up, but she definitely looked all around, as if expecting that crumb to be hovering at beak level.

I thought this was fascinating, because I, as top bird, would look down, following that crumb’s obvious line of travel. So, why did my little Sparrow simply look in one plane?

Having given this a teacup full of thought the realization came to me; I do not fly. If attempted, I fall out of the sky, much like crumbs. It is a bit of an inconvenience, but there you have it. The little Sparrow does fly.

My experience is that when I, or anything else is lifted into the air and released, it always falls to the ground. I know, where to look for those things; I look downwards.

Birds have a different gravitational experience. They fly. Their fellow birds fly. They do not fall out of the sky. Even food on the ground, can be picked up and flown away with. To a little Sparrow, flight is normal. To the little Sparrow, that crumb should have stayed around the place it was dropped, up in the air. Why not? That is how the world is seen by a little Sparrows eyes.

Now, if only I can figure out why toast always falls butter side down……..

Where did I put my cup?

Please feel free to leave your mark by jotting a comment in the reply box at the bottom of this page. Thank You

BAD, BAD BARRI

Our winter in Spain, cooped up in a space smaller than the average prison cell; without the slop bucket, had gone remarkably smoothly. At home some friends have tents that are far bigger than our camper bus, who we call Barri. But no tent is as cute, inside or out. We were justifiably proud and smug in equal measure.

The beautiful Barri, gleaming in the rain.

Pride always comes before a fall, they say; so some might say that we probably had it coming. Our cheap, chi chi, beggar on a beach of gold lifestyle was about to come unstuck; spectacularly.

We thought Barri needed a wash, and a wash was what he was going to get. Off we went, on the road, with Barri leading the way. Marvellous. Out of the blue, we noticed a smell of burning oil. We noticed smoke. We noticed we had ground to a solid, seized-up-engine stop. Oops!

Barri returned, ignominiously, to the campsite languishing on the back of a breakdown truck to be dumped, unceremoniously, on our pitch for the night. We were the talk of the campsite. Everyone came to call, to find out what had happened and to give us advice. Word of mouth travels faster than a cold in a playgroup.

We had until the next morning to sort ourselves somewhere to sleep and somewhere to send Barri for surgery. We sought the advice of the campsite’s old guard who know all things Denia. We needed a very good garage, as the engine was almost certainly totalled. Our fellow campers consistently proffered the name of just one company, Auto-Tecnica Mecanicos, Denia. That was the easy part. Removing from Barri all that we needed for about three weeks of living in a tent was rather more thought provoking.

Our awning, cleared out and ready for us to move into. It didn’t stay tidy for long

Mobile phones in hand, we chatted to the garage owner, Mark, whose English was amazing: perhaps unsurprising, him being an ex-pat; Barri could go straight there in the morning. We slept easy that night, despite knowing that we had no way of getting ourselves and all our junk home, our return was due in a few short weeks. But, Ho-hum, what can you do?

Part of the marvellous Auto-Tecnica team.

Our diagnosis was proved right. The rise in temperature in the engine did not show on the instrument panel, because the temperature sensor had blown out of it’s housing and was hanging, uselessly from its’ wiring, allowing all the coolant to disgorge in our wake. In an almighty hurry, the engine had cooked solid. Barri would have to be fitted with a reconditioned replacement engine. Mark, and the mechanics, were happy to take on the work and we were happy with their approach to Barri’s predicament. As we left the garage, over my shoulder I felt Barri’s pain as he cried out, “I need a miracle.” Wally insisted I was imagining things, but, was I?

So here we were. Mid February 2019, sleeping in our awning, with a terminally ill camper van in an induced coma and an ever increasing set of invoices. There was nothing for it but to settle in for the longish haul and buy a couple of hot water bottles to keep the chill of reality at bay.

Fellow campers brought us little gifts and offerings and though we were in no need of any of it, it was a very lovely and welcome demonstration that folks cared.

To cut a long long story short, we ordered a top notch reconditioned engine from a Spanish company who are based in Madrid, Tecnicas Del Motor (NEVER order an engine from this company). As a sign of our commitment, and because it was required of us, we sealed ourselves into the deal by putting down a large deposit. Tecnicas Del Motor (NEVER order an engine from this company) had several engines ready to go and they could get one to our garage within a couple of days. The amazing Mark and Chris, our British mechanics, got to work. Open heart surgery was needed. With surgical precision, they began stripping out everything that could be re-used. They checked, repaired and refurbished anything they could easily get at whilst the engine was out of Barri’s torso. We were going to have a brighter, better Barri, with all his diseased parts removed, re-fettled and replaced.

February, and March, came and went. April saw us heading to France for snowboarding; made possible by the RAC, who hired us a car for the journey. At this point we were supposed to be on our way home to the UK in Barri, but we had to rush straight back to Spain, as the engine was about to arrive. Really.

Our hire car, supplied and paid for by the RAC.

However April, went, as did most of May. Still no engine from Tecnicas Del Motor (NEVER order an engine from this company) and we had to be back in the UK. Commitments. Once again the KTMs were loaded up with camping kit and we rode along the back roads, up through Spain to Bilbao https://wandering-wallys.blog/2019/12/17/spain-from-the-mediterranean-sea-to-the-atlantic-ocean/. From there, the boat took us back to Old Blighty. It was probably one of our most enjoyable trips, ever.

Almost the end of a fantastically enjoyable ride up through Spain. Click the image for a link to our journey home using the back roads and lanes of Spain.

A month later and with June half gone. We had a message. The engine had left the factory! Almost 4 months to the day that the engine builders had originally said it would arrive at the garage. Spanish time is a thing of wonder.

When it arrived, the replacement engine was all that we had paid for, thank goodness.

We hopped on the train from St. Pancras and after a romantic night in Paris, found ourselves back in Denia via Barcelona and Valencia.

In no time at all, Mark and Chris had fitted the replacement engine and Barri was defibrillated back into life. Frankinbarri was arris. Obviously, this new Barri was not going be silent running. His voice had lost that deep walrus of love Barri rumble, and now sounded more of an even, smooth, lounge lizard Barri Manifold. Nice.

Having spent months inside the Auto-Tecnica garage, Barri is well enough to get some fresh air.

As part of his physiotherapy, we took Barri to all the old Spanish haunts he had loved before his sudden illness. His rehab was to be completed before returning to his specialists, Mark and Chris, for a final sign off. Then he would be free to head for England.

Barri’s physi0 and rehab programme took him to some pretty places.

The only fly in the ointment? The Madrid based engine builders, Tecnicas Del Motor (NEVER order an engine from this company), had charged for a new oil pump, but had fitted a spruced up, used one; with no gasket. They said they had run out of time. Luckily it was spotted before Barri had run out of oil. It was a problem that was easily solved, though not without raiding our bank account.