Ampolla Imposta? No, Amposta!

This land of shimmering blue mirages envelops the weary traveller. Lulling and tranquil; warm, sensual, it lies low, just out of sight of clamorous Barcelona.

The beautiful Ebro Delta with Amposta to the south and L’Ampolla in the north.

The two towns of Amposta and L’Ampolla are either side of a large Delta. The delta is formed by the constant outpouring of silt by the Ebro River. Even though we have been to both towns, I had not realised that they were differently named. I honestly thought that it was one town, Amposta, spreading along a large bay. Obviously that was wrong! It is not a scooped out bay, it is a bulging delta. And the two towns? They do not share a name and are in two different places, with the delta in-between. There; I am relieved to get that off my chest. Next time I will look at the map.

A rice farmer’s cabin. I would stay in one in a heartbeat.

Of course, being on the Mediterranean coast, it is sure to be a winner for most people and yet, luckily for us, most people were elsewhere, leaving us virtually alone to re-explore this wonderland.

La Banya is a 6km spit of sand, which at times, mists over to become as blue as the sea and the sky.

Reminiscent of the famous Carmargue area in France, although without it’s beach front hippy shacks and motor homes, this is more compact. No wild horses here; but salt pans and flamingos, sand, sea and big sky abound.

I guarantee that you will see herds of rinky dink pink Flamingos when you come here.

Of course it is not a herd of birds! The trouble is that where Flamingos are concerned, a ‘flock’ falls flat as a collective noun. This has to be one of nature’s overwhelming spectacles, which is why it should have a name commensurate with it’s glamour. It is also a reason why we come here.

Pinched in between the mountains and the sea, the lakes and paddy fields of the Ebro Delta reflect sky and mountains.

A wetland of international importance, this delta is a Mecca for birdwatchers and botanists, which was the initial draw for us. It still has a pull for us, of course, but it is the wistful beauty of the place that has mesmerised us and it might capture you too.

The Aire (free overnight parking) is attached to this cafe bar, Casa de Fusta. They charge for services.

The Case de Fusta is very busy first thing in the morning with the local men who pop in to eat, drink and talk remarkably loudly. Intimidating at first, they have ready smiles once they know that you are not going to make a pass at them, so take a deep breath, sit down at a table and order your breakfast. The cafe is set in a rustic complex for tourists, which is always closed when we come through in the winter and early spring. Luckily the cafe and it’s Aire is open year round.

Leaving the Casa de Fusta Aire.

If you are bored with Barcelona and Tarragona is a gonna for you, this might be your travel stop-over choice. Stay for a few nights and perhaps a little longer. Take in L’Ampolla too as it has a very different vibe to Amposta, despite it’s long sandy beaches, Flamingos, paddy fields.

Come out to La Banya with us. It is a great walk, cycle ride, motorbike adventure, or a simple drive. Just remember sand can have it’s moments!

Do you, like us, have a place that draws you back, or lingers in your soul, making you soften as you remember? Tell us about it here, at the home for the misty eyed traveller. Many thanks. The Wallys XX

L’Ampolla, Sun, Sea, & Sand Cycling

  • Who would not want to spend time in a shimmering seascape?
  • Who would not want to spend time with Flamingos?
  • And who would not want to try cycling on sand?

It was a yes to all three questions, which is how we came to be in this wondrous bay for a few nights.

Nestling between Barcelona and Valencia is L’Ampolla

It is the place for a quiet winter stop over. A water-world that draws you in. The sheer beauty of the bay with it’s pretty and fairly sophisticated little town, long sandy beach and, just inland, lagoons is breath taking. The more we looked, the more we saw and the more we saw, the more we liked.

A beautiful sandy beach next to a shallow sea with it’s Flamingos. L’Ampolla shimmers in the distance.

Sadly as we arrived the Covid19 lockdown was about to be confirmed by the president. We had one day on site, at the most; possibly, if we were lucky, two nights. As things turned out, we made the most of our one whole day by exploring the area on our mountain bikes, only to get back to the campsite to be told that we would have to leave by midday the following day.

We will definitely return to this magical bay.

A Sand-Cycle tour of L’Ampolla’s Nature Reserve.

Please click below to like, follow and comment. We love to hear from you. All the best, the Wandering Wallys. xx